Da Nang, the 3rd largest city in Vietnam, is not as chaotic as Hanoi, thanks to many one-way streets. But the traffic is still heavy. Everyone is on the move, by motor bikes or by cars, rushing through. At one busy intersection not far from the hotel, there is no traffic light. But mopeds, taxis, cars, and trucks seems work out an unspoken pattern. After standing at the corner for 15 minutes, I have not seen any accident, even though there is so much traffic and there is no traffic authority. Everyone slows down when approaching the intersection, looks left and right and honks when it is too close to each other, or when other drivers are not looking at this direction. Bigger vehicles go first. When a truck comes to the intersection, it honks loudoly to let everyone know who is coming. Smaller taxis and cars yield to big SUVs, and mopeds are at the bottom of this hierarchy. Moped drivers pay full attention to the surroundings and stop and wait for bigger vehicles to pass by.
This traffic pattern is not based on official rules such as we use in the U.S., where traffic lights dictate who is going and who is not. At this intersection in Da Nang, and many situations in Vietnam on and off streets, the rule is not based on the official law, but on the knowledge and understanding of human relations. Drivers are aware of where they are and who are around them, and act accordingly based on the anticipation of others’ movement. Therefore, a running pedestrian creates unanticipated move that interrupts this understanding of social behavior. It is literally true that you can close your eyes and walk slowly across the street. This busy intersection is like a small community that illustrates the Vietnamese culture. A culture that emphasizes community, relations to each other, and collective thinking. To be able to live and work in a country like Vietnam, this awareness of self and others is very important. Knowing who you are and where you are, and understand your relations to others is a basic skill.
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